REVIEWS

 Lancaster County Magazine April, 1999

In an atmosphere steeped in history, the Horse Inn has endured to serve three generations of customers.


by Rochelle A. Shenk



The Horse Inn has long been regarded as one of Lancaster's "best kept secrets," due in part to its location - not only it is situated in an alley, but on the second floor. "We're really not that hard to find," owner Albert Medved says with a smile.

Owned and operated by the Medved family since 1972, this restaurant's recipe for success can be credited to a variety of ingredients. One of those is atmosphere: hand-crafted wooden floors, exposed brick walls, eight wooden "Toby" tables from Lancaster's Stevens Hotel, booths reminiscent of horse stalls, chandeliers that are actual wagon wheels and barstools crafted from the hubs of those wheels. Horse and carriage implements also add to the decor.

The European hand-crafted bar unit dates back to the 1800s and a front section, made from an original door found at Franklin and Marshall College, dates back to 1787. "We are the only authentic American-theme restaurant in the area," Medved proudly proclaims.

Originally built in the 1800s, the building was purchased in 1911 by William Shaub and his sons to house their excavating and contracting business. The second floor was used as a hayloft, with the horses, carriages and equipment being stored on the ground floor.

Food was first served on the premises during the early 20s, when the second floor was converted into a speakeasy. (It was in this same time frame that the horse stalls and equipment were brought upstairs.) Spirited games of shuffleboard caused participants to work up an appetite, prompting Shaub's wife, Florence, to begin serving tenderloin tips on toast, which to this day remains a signature menu item at the Horse Inn.

Another ingredient that has contributed to the Horse Inn's success is the consistency and quality of food that have been duly noted throughout the restaurant's quarter century of operation. Continuing that tradition is Chef Dave Roberts, who has been with the Horse Inn for five years. Roberts, Al Medved and his son Ken, who is the manager of the Horse Inn, worked together last year to revise the Horse Inn's menu. "When I first came there, we served the traditional tenderloin tips dinners and other items that have been on the menu for years. We kept that and expanded the menu to include fish, seafood, chicken and pasta," he explains. Items are prepared fresh daily and Roberts cuts his own beef.

Customer favorites include the ever-popular tenderloin tips, filet and crab cakes. The new menu, which Roberts describes as nouveau American, also includes combos - tips served with grilled shrimp skewer, crab imperial, crab cake or chicken tenderloins. Prime rib is available Friday or Saturday. Veal dishes, chicken (black & tan chicken, chicken portabella and more), seafood (orange roughy, surf n' turf / lobster and filet, shrimp, crab cakes, fruits of the sea combo platter), pasta (penne marinara, mariner's bounty / shrimp, scallops, clams, mussels and catch of the day over angel hair pasta, Horse Inn chicken n' shrimp) and sandwiches round out the menu. There are also several daily specials, including a catch of the day. "People really enjoy our catch of the day," Ken Medved observes.

"We're a family restaurant. We get a lot of families. Parents like the fine dining menu and cozy atmosphere, plus the fact that we have something for the kids," Al Medved remarks. A children's menu includes a half portion of tips, a burger, chicken fingers and grilled cheese. Entrée prices range from $11.95 (penne marinara) to $25.95 (surf n' turf). Children's menu prices range from $2.95 to $4.75.

The Horse Inn draft beer selections are almost all Pennsylvania-made and include Rolling Rock, Yuengling lager, Stoudt's Cold and Coors light. The wine list features Chaddsford wine, made in nearby Chadds Ford, Chester County. Bottled beer, wine coolers, non-alcoholic brews, sodas and specialty water are also available.

The Horse Inn seats 90 in its main room and has a private dining room that seats 40 and is available for parties. The back room is also used for dining on Friday and Saturday evenings. "We do take reservations. A lot of people prefer the booths, and you can specify a booth when making reservations," Ken Medved points out.

Ken Medved is of the opinion that despite breaking all the rules, the Horse Inn has discovered that the secret to success is a relatively simple one. "We break all the rules of restaurant success; we're located on an alley and are on the second floor of a building," he says, "but we've got the atmosphere and good food for a reasonable price - that's what really matters to our customer."




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